For nearly six season, Norwegian climber Leo Bøe has visited the impressive granite cave of Flatanger, Norway. The high quality routes, the ability to climb in the rain, and the consistent, good conditions in the summer have allowed him to make quickly progress through the grades on the steep rock. Last season, he made significant progress there, sending three 9a routes, Illusionist, Little Badder, and Valhalla. He then set his sights on a bigger goal, working on Change (9b/+).
The Illusionist marked the beginning of his summer success. The crux involves a five-draw 8b compression boulder problem on bad holds. The short, intense route involves ground fall potential but Bøe pulled off the route in late August. “I almost fell on the big span move before the roof,” He said, “but when I finally stuck that I climbed Illusionist to the top.”
The following day, Bøe fired off Little Badder (9a), which features a vastly different style. One stopper move in the last crux thwarted his efforts and he fell there six times before sending the pumpy, endlessly overhanging climb, doing some full body wrestling on the juggy granite holds. “In the end it went when I had optimized the rests before.”
Bøe kept sending and shortly after his send of Little Badder, he completed Valhalla (9a), an endurance test piece that he worked with a few other climbers in the cave. “I was on a rampage,” Bøe said. The momentum he’d built coupled wit, learning all the kneebar tricks from his friends helped him complete the 60-meter marathon route, which he spent nearly 40 minutes on during his redpoint. “It was more a mental battle than a physical one, you spend alot of time resting, thinking and charging up for the next boulders.” With such an impressive season, it was hard to know what would be next.
“As the trip was coming to an end I was shopping for new projects, this time more ambitious,” said Bøe of the end of his 2024 Flatanger season. He directed his attention towards Change L1 (9a+). “To my surprise I found a good method for the bouldery route and with a great mental and physical shape after having ticked my projects, I quickly put promising tries in that route,” said Bøe. After about 6 days of work and just before the end of his trip, Bøe tied in with nothing to lose.
“Giving a final try that day made absolutely no sense as I was totally wrecked and on top it was getting dark and humid. However, I gave one last burn powered by motivation and somehow passed the famous shoulder crux of Change!”
/ Leo Ketil Bøe
Bøe had to continue fighting and the next 8a section felt hard as he overgripped, wanting to make it to the anchors. “Luckily, I reached the chains and I could leave Flatanger with even bigger goals in mind: The entire Change (9b/+).
Bøe returned this season with one goal in mind: Change. He began working the 60-meter route, pushing his highpoint past the first set of anchors and into the full line. The route’s consistent 35–40-degree steepness, coupled with the steady difficulty of the climbing makes giving it quality tries difficult, and Bøe can only give it one good effort before needing a rest day. Conditions have been difficult though. Though the route stays dry in the rain, water seeps through the cave and it’s unknown what holds will be wet and when. “You need a day where it’s crisp and no water running out of the crack,” said Bøe. Climbers have been making little paper tufas to redirect the water away from the holds. Climbing the route also requires mental fortitude not merely because of the length but the spaced draws mean big falls.
By staying in a house within walking distance of the cave, by dedicating himself fully, and focusing on the climb, Boe has been able to push his high point up the wall, getting closer and closer to sending the elusive Change. He’s been taking a measured approach while tackling this limit project. “I’m being patient with the process,” Bøe said. Undoubtably, his resolve will pay off.
