At Damtjern, one of Norway’s most historic and benchmark crags, Draumkvedet has long stood as a line with both reputation and mystique. In April 2024, Norwegian climber Sunniva Øvre-Eide clipped the chains on the classic 8c, making the first female ascent of the route and fulfilling a dream she had carried since childhood.
A Dream Route
From a young age, Sunniva was captivated by Draumkvedet. While working on other projects, she would watch the strongest climbers test themselves on the line and quietly imagine doing the same one day. “It seemed a bit terrifying because I heard it was better suited to taller climbers, and I had never seen a woman try it,” she remembers. At 1.70m, Sunniva still jokes that she’s considered short in Norway.
Her chance finally came after sending another local classic, which made it feel natural to try. To her surprise, after just one attempt, she had done all the moves. “It felt like the route was a perfect match,” she says.
Unlocking the Crux
The greatest difficulty came in the form of a technical crux sequence. The move hinged on a high left foot, awkward to place and harder still to generate pressure from. At first, she thought she had found the right beta, but on her second session, she realized a subtle adjustment was key. Shifting her foot just a few millimeters to the right transformed the move into something possible.
This was quite different from the standard sequence, which involves underclinging, staying low, and reaching up to a pocket. For Sunniva, that reach was too long. Instead, her solution became a high foot and a controlled lock-off. “The breakthrough was definitely the foot beta for the crux move,” she explains.
A Surprising Mental Process
Unlike many projects, Draumkvedet didn’t weigh heavily on her mind. “It went so fast I didn’t have any big mental challenges,” Sunniva says. At a crag known for being brutally benchmarked, she hadn’t expected to send an 8c quickly. That mindset gave her freedom. “I was mentally ready to work hard and long for this route, so I didn’t feel the usual pressure that comes once you start redpointing.”
Style and Comparison
Though she loves crimps and technical routes, Sunniva expected Draumkvedet to feel reachy and bouldery. Instead, she found it played to her strengths. “On my first try, I realized it was more sustainable than bouldery. A lot of small footholds and moves that require the right body position and focus all the way to the top,” she says.
Having only tried a handful of hard routes, two 8cs and two 8c+, she admits comparisons are difficult. But she notes that style often matters more than grade. “Some of the 8b or 8b+ I’ve done felt harder, probably because they didn’t suit me as well. Draumkvedet did.”
A Belayer and Inspiration
Perhaps the most meaningful part of the send was sharing it with her father. “My one and only dad has always been my climbing partner,” Sunniva said. He has belayed nearly all of her sends, missing just one at Damtjern, and he was determined not to miss this one.
With over 30 years of climbing experience, he remains as passionate as ever. “I think he is maybe at his strongest now. He’s still motivated to train hard for his own projects outside. He is a great motivator and inspiration for me.”
A Historic Send
By solving the crux with her own beta and trusting her style, Sunniva Øvre-Eide became the first woman to complete Draumkvedet. For her, the route was more than just climbing another grade; it was the realization of a dream years in the making, a lesson in precision, and a celebration shared with the partner who has supported her from the beginning.
Sometimes, making history is just a matter of moving your foot a few millimeters to the right.